Unlike lean, white turkey breast, goose meat is quite dark and flavourful, possessing a beautiful hint of gaminess. Goose legs and thighs are even darker and more flavoursome than the breast. In the Victorian and Edwardian eras, geese were such an aspirational Christmas centrepiece that 'Goose Clubs' were formed, in which low-income families could tuck away money for the annual roast.
In the 1950s, the traditional Christmas goose was usurped by the American turkey. But geese – which are native to Europe – are making a comeback, partly thanks to the increased interest in indigenous ingredients and partly thanks to geese's association with a sense of luxury and occasion. Luckily, they're a slightly more affordable luxury now, ensuring that goose doesn't have to be a once-a-year-bird if you don’t want it to be.