8 must-try dishes when you’re in Madrid

Cocido madrileño is a hearty stew, designed to warm the cockles during the colder winter months in the city, but is also eaten year-round. The central ingredient of any good cocido is a mountain of chickpeas, accompanied by other root vegetables such as potatoes, carrots, cabbage and turnips. Pork is another important element, and comes in the form of belly, chorizo, blood sausage and cured ham. Beef shank and chicken is sometimes added, as well as bones to enrich the stock. The beauty of the dish, however, is how it is eaten. Each element is served separately in three ‘acts’ known as vuelcos. The first vuelco is a ladleful of the aromatic cocido stock, sometimes served with thin noodles. The second vuelco consists of the chickpeas and the vegetables, and the third vuelco is the assortment of different meats. You therefore get a three-course meal out of a single dish. As you would expect, this seriously hearty stew is best followed by a long siesta.

A bocadillo de calamares consists of squid rings lightly coated in flour and deep-fried in olive oil, which are then stuffed into a fresh, crusty bread roll. Washed down with a caña (a small beer), this squid sandwich is the perfect afternoon snack, and will only ever cost you a few euros. Make sure you get one made to order, and if you can, ask for some tangy allioli sauce to accompany the squid. The best place to sample one of these sandwiches is Madrid’s Plaza Mayor, or main square. Buy a bocadillo at one of the many surrounding bars and eat it standing up at the counter, or find a nearby bench in the plaza itself. No fuss, no frills; this is Madrid street food at its simplest and very best.

Callos a la madrileña is another type of stew, for those seeking something a little more adventurous. It is similar to the cocido madrileño, in that it contains chickpeas, blood sausage and chorizo. However, the star of the show is veal tripe, which is boiled until tender, sliced into strips and then cooked in a rich tomato- and saffron-based broth. Despite being a straightforward recipe, the dish is revered and held in very high regard by the locals. It is served in many bars and restaurants, who will all claim to have the best recipe. It is a good idea to ask some friendly madrileños (the name for the people of Madrid) where the best callos can be found. The stew is great for sharing among large groups, as the portions are often very generous.

Churros are the unquestionable cure for your sweet tooth when in Madrid. These sticks of fried pastry dough can be found everywhere and can be eaten at any time. A simple paste made of flour, water, oil and salt is piped through a churrera (a syringe-like tool with a star-shaped nozzle) and dropped into a waiting vat of bubbling oil. They are then fried until golden and crispy then dusted with cinnamon and sugar. Churros in Madrid are typically thin, straight rods, but you can find them in all shapes and sizes, including curls, spirals and twists. As well as being sold by street vendors, churros can be eaten in specialised churrerías in the form of a café or shop. Best enjoyed with a steaming cup of thick, silky hot chocolate for dipping, churros are quite a messy affair to eat, so have some napkins at the ready!