‘Fermentation has been around since ancient times and households used to make all manner of things, but today we take it for granted’, says Greek native Maria Boumpa, sommelier of Bethnal Green’s two-Michelin-starred Da Terra. For Rafael Cagali’s team, creating an extensive in-house non-alcoholic offering was a no-brainer when they noticed that their guests were drinking less alcohol and were enquiring into other options to pair with Da Terra’s tasting menu.
A 2022 UK consumer report tracking the attitudes towards the low-and-no-alcohol drinks market reported that a third of adults had reduced their alcohol intake in the prior twelve months. A quarter of adults, meanwhile, noted that their consumption of low-and-no-alcohol options have helped their ambition to drink less.
Maria, in charge of the non-alcoholic pairing at Da Terra, says that constructing their offering around in-house ferments allows Da Terra to utilise seasonal ingredients and create drinks that are versatile and well suited to the dishes being served on any given evening. Maria and Rafael take inspiration from fermentation practices far afield in places like Mexico and China, and then adapt them to South American flavour profiles to suit Rafael’s cuisine, with drinks like tepache, marigold kombucha and a kefir water all making appearances. Their tepache, a drink traditionally from Mexico and made from pineapple rind, sees the addition of fermented honey and caju, and is paired with their coconut parfait with barbecued pineapple.