Nestled away in Wales’ Dyfi Valley, Ynyshir is a destination restaurant in every sense of the word. It’s quite hard to get to, is situated in the middle of a RSPB nature reserve and has just twenty covers in its restaurant, but anyone who makes the journey to eat there will be well rewarded. Previously known as Ynyshir Hall, chef Gareth Ward and his partner Amelia Eriksson have transformed it from a country house hotel into a restaurant with ten bedrooms, putting the focus firmly on the food.

The menu revolves around Gareth’s ethos: ‘Ingredient led, flavour driven, fat fuelled, meat obsessed’. There are just two tasting menus to choose from – an eleven-course lunch or a nineteen-course dinner (which is also available at lunch during the winter season). With just a handful of tables in the restaurant, seating between one and four people, it’s a place to indulge in an intimate gastronomic experience that lasts all evening.

The food changes dramatically with the seasons, preserving ingredients when they’re at their best to be used later on in the year. Every course might only contain a few bites, but as much flavour as possible is squeezed into every ingredient, with a focus on aged meat, fermented vegetables and Japanese flavours above all else. There are no rich stocks or heavy carbohydrates; instead, many plates simply contain a piece of protein, a soy-based dressing and a fermented element for contrast.

The dining room itself is Scandinavian in feel, with the open kitchen giving diners an insight into how each course is prepared. The dark, atmospheric interior (which is constantly being improved and added to – the next step is to design some bespoke dining chairs) contrasts with the beautiful gardens outside, which are in the process of becoming wild meadows. Gareth and Amelia have plans to turn the manicured garden into a working kitchen garden, with polytunnels, fruit orchards and birch trees which can be harvested throughout the year.

The chefs serve each course themselves, giving diners an expert insight into the ingredients and techniques used to create every plate of food. The most prized ingredient is dry-aged Welsh Wagyu beef, which finds its way into everything, including the butter for the bread and even the desserts. Front of house staff are more focused on drinks, either from the bar in the adjoining room or from the wine list, which was voted the best in the UK by the AA in 2018. In 2022, it was awarded a second Michelin star.

Much like other destination restaurants all over the world, Ynyshir is unlike anything you’d find in a city or closer to civilisation. There are ten bedrooms offering far-flung diners a place to stay, which are in the process of being refurbished to be more in keeping with the restaurant. For anyone who loves perfectly cooked, inventive, flavourful cuisine, Ynyshir should be at the very top of the must-visit list.