The Wine Show: episode eleven – wine fraud

Counterfeiting relies on an attention to detail – a photographic memory of the various labels, bottle shapes, glass indentations etc. of the various wines produced from a certain estate or Chateau throughout the ages. In 2012, Rudy famously consigned several lots of Clos St Denis from Domaine Ponsot from vintages long prior to any recorded production of Ponsot wines from that vineyard. The auction lots were withdrawn prior to bidding and Rudy’s cover began to crumble. He was arrested in March 2012 and at his sentencing in August 2014, a federal judge said his victims lost close to $30 million. The man who was known for ‘arguably the greatest cellar on earth’ will now forever be remembered as the greatest perpetrator of wine fraud that ever lived.

Jerome Mooney, Rudy’s lawyer, offers a less simplistic portrayal of his client. He does not dispute Rudy’s guilt of the crime. He asks us to think about whether the sentence Rudi was given is fair, arguing that Rudi only damaged wealthy people’s hobbies.

Rudy helped the wine auction house Acker Merrall & Condit rise to unbelievable financial heights. At two Acker auctions in 2006 he had unloaded wines worth an astonishing $35 million, and it has been argued that he was ‘used’ by them to keep on buying wine so that they could keep getting stellar sales in auction. If an auction house knows that they can make millions in one sale when Rudy’s name is associated with the wine collection – would they wish to pry into the provenance of those bottles? Equally, some winemakers may not wish to alert auction houses if they think fraudulent bottles of their estate are being sold. They might see it as damaging their reputation to future buyers of their wine.

Wine fraud hits at all levels of the market – from auctions to wine merchants and supermarkets. Even the untouchables, Angelina and Brad Pitt were affected. Their Miraval rosé, which sells in M&Sfor £18, now has a hallmark engraved in the glass because it was discovered that fakes were being produced and distributed in China. Four years ago, a consignment of counterfeit Jacob’s Creek, made in China and being sold in the UK, was uncovered. The forgers had spelt Australia wrong on the label. It is a murky world that is far more widespread than anyone realises.

Even with the recent light shed on these fine wine scams due to the Rudy Kurniawan case and even with all these guidelines – I can’t help thinking that wine fraud will keep on happening and that it will always be far more elusive than art fraud or copying a Rolex. It is partly due to wine’s organic and evolving nature that makes it harder to discern authenticity. However, it is also partly due to human nature too. We want to believe something’s real and don’t want to admit that our taste can’t discern a fake. Most of us would be too embarrassed to say anything if we thought something didn’t taste ‘quite right’ and definitely would not want to make that call in front of others. It’s tough enough to send back a corked wine in a restaurant for most people. It is that unnecessary mystique behind the subject of wine that enabled Rudy Kurniawan to sell his wine at such giddy prices. It is that same mystique which can’t help but make me think of The Emperor’s New Clothes.