The competition moves on to the North East and, in doing so, manages to pick up a shedload of controversy along the way. Angry Viewer is incensed to discover that this week’s contingent includes chefs from Harrogate and Huddersfield. Angry Viewer argues that these two should be banished to the Yorkshire heats. I’m sorely tempted to point out that actually there is no Yorkshire heat for Great British Menu and that realistically anywhere north east of the Central region is, well, North East. That is until it reaches the Scottish border. And then it’s Scotland. Who said geography is not my strong point?
Anyway, Durham-born Tom Anglesea passes his North East citizenship test with flying colours, despite having then bought a single ticket on the East Coast line to become the head chef at The Laughing Heart in London.
The Great British Menu website tells us that Tom is starting with ‘a special version of a Bellini’, which sounds particularly challenging given that his cocktail-mixing ingredients are potatoes, caviar and crème fraiche. I suspect they mean ‘blini’ but I do a thorough online search in case I’m being even more ignorant than usual. No luck there. Tom presents his dish. It certainly looks more like a blini to me.
Called ‘My Masterplan’ after the Oasis song, it failed to win the approval of this week’s veteran Michael O’Hare. Taking his criticism on board, Tom presents a reworked version of the dish, ditching the smoked crème fraiche in favour of chicken oysters. He places these on a bed of caramelised onions, adds a generous dollop of caviar and a scattering of red butterfly sorrel, propping up his work with delicate discs of pommes Maxim. His pommes soufflés failed to inflate on Wednesday but thankfully play ball for the judges. Another addition of onion broth is intended to help unite the ingredients.
Oliver thinks it’s ‘very pretty’ and Matthew praises its ‘wonderfully rich smell’ but guest judge Pete Waterman grimaces at the ‘exceptionally salty’ flavour and Andi says ‘oh dear’.