Cheffing has always had a strong whiff of romanticism about it. Today, the divide between chefs and artists is probably as narrow as it has ever been, especially given the power and reach of social media platforms like Instagram and Facebook; showing off has never been so worthwhile. But in Gary Foulkes, Angler has found a realist – a chef with his feet firmly planted on solid ground, who values flavour above all else.
‘You could have the most perfect looking dish in the world, but if it doesn't taste of anything what's the point?’ he says. ‘Food is for eating at the end of the day.’
Even his start in the food industry was straightforward. ‘There’s no romantic story where my grandmother was making noodles,’ Gary laughs. ‘When I was at school I got sent on a work placement at a hotel, and at the end of the week I spent a day in the kitchen. I really enjoyed it – everyone was really into what they were doing, and it was really good fun. When you’re fifteen or so, that’s all you care about isn’t it? You just want to go and have fun. I never thought about where it could lead.’