Open all day, Outlaw's at the St Enodoc Hotel's décor and ambience provide a casual contrast to its counterpart’s fine dining. Diners in white linen trousers and deck shoes will fit in well in the understated, cream-coloured interior, and the views of the Camel estuary will entrance clients indulging in a post-prandial snack of champagne and oysters.
The menu at Outlaw's takes a distinctly different tack from its predecessor, too. Here, Outlaw and his team offer a frequently shifting list of just-caught fish and a separate list of sauces, allowing diners more choice than usual in how their food is prepared (staff can suggest the most felicitous pairings).
Although diners surveying the Market Fish section of the menu will find simple treatments like whole grilled plaice or whole chargrilled mackerel, the approach doesn’t mute Outlaw’s virtuosity with fish. As general manager Ian Dodson told Food Magazine, "The idea is to let the fish speak for itself, because we really believe we have access to the best fish in the world here."
That’s not to say that Nathan Outlaw at the St Enodoc Hotel doesn’t showcase its proprietor’s technique, though. Mussels perfectly cooked in Cornish Doom Bar ale and deep fried squid with squid ink mayonnaise are among the highlights of the restaurant’s starters, and the restaurant is justifiably proud of less esoteric treats like Porthilly oysters, perfectly fried chips and a crab Scotch egg.
Consistent with his sourcing obsession, Outlaw is careful to buy from sustainable fisheries, providing completely guilt-free eating – a level of attention welcome in an industry that sometimes politely ignores the environmental impact of its kitchens.