This second venture from Martin Wishart is every bit as sophisticated as his central Leith venue, although with an added air of country-house glamour – with the cooking and hospitality transplanted, as it has been, to Cameron House on the shores of Loch Lomond, a grand old pile surrounded by acres of green and located smack-bang next to the water.
Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond has been commended for its design – the dining room is just as glamorous, relaxed and modern as the city-centre venue, and here it provides a charming juxtaposition with the genteel surroundings of the house and loch – and once again the focus is on romance, refinement, and relaxation.
Wishart’s trademark blend of fine technique and luxury ingredients is once again at the fore of the menu, while gentle combinations of flavours – often involving marinated and lightly-prepared fruits, mushrooms, and herbs as adornments both in terms of flavour and appearance – emphasise his skill at putting together dishes that have the fine dining touch but which keep people coming back for more.
Seasonality and provenance is more than just a ‘box to tick’ here – the menu items are selected using the very best of what’s available now, so expect to find cepes adorning the ‘mosaique’ of foie gras, confit chicken and ham with its sour cherry and golden raising vinaigrette; look out for seasonal vegetables making appearances in the form of, for example, pumpkin veloute with grilled Orkney scallops.
Quotidian items like endives, turnips and cabbage are used in fine style to highlight the flavours of – and the techniques used to prepare – top-quality meat and fish, and while local is clearly the best as far as Wishart is concerned you will frequently find daring and well-thought out flourishes from further afield.
The exceptional wine list has been commended by many, is hugely extensive and focuses on all regions, and features a number of options – like pairing for the menu, half-bottles and glasses, and a wide selection of champagnes.
‘Although steeped in the techniques of the classical French kitchen Martin Wishart’s culinary imagination has a distinctly contemporary edge’
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