Wareing's meticulous style is as much about applying imaginative good taste to ingredients as dazzling technique. His cuisine marries the classic with the contemporary, resulting in dishes that feel refined but humble too. As the chef himself defines it, “it’s not British cuisine, it’s not French cuisine – it’s Marcus cuisine’.
In addition to his eponymous restaurant the chef has opened two other venues, the St Pancras brasserie the Gilbert Scott and affordable, relaxed eatery Tredwell’s. While food at Marcus’ displays the sort of panache one would expect from a two-Michelin-star fine-dining establishment, the menu at the Gilbert Scott serves up slightly more nostalgic, humble offerings. Eccles cakes, Manchester tart and Jaffa cakes – admittedly executed with a wry, culinary twist – are popular fixtures on the menu, and represent dishes Marcus Wareing remembers fondly from his own childhood.
Despite Marcus Wareing’s immense success – after all, this is a man who has cooked custard tart for the Queen on Great British Menu – he still maintains the same relentlessly dedicated work ethic he learnt from his father. He is usually in the office at Marcus at the Berkeley by 8.30am, dividing his time throughout the day between business meetings and tastings in the kitchen; no sauce or garnish prepared for the lunch service will go out without first being approved by Marcus Wareing himself. The chef is present at every dinner service where possible, and on any occasion where he is not able to be there he is in contact with his head chef throughout the day and insists that diners are aware that their food is not being prepared by him personally.
With an impressive cluster of accolades, a burgeoning television career and a growing number of well-loved restaurants to his name, Marcus Wareing seems to be treading a similar path to his former mentor and friend. Despite his growing success, however, the chef is adamant that hands-on cooking will always be his number one priority.
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