Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4

Place the rib racks in a large roasting tin and pour in 3 litres of water, then add the salt, peppercorns and bay leaves. Cover the tin with foil, transfer to the oven and cook for about 11⁄2 hours, or until the ribs are very soft and tender – you should be able to pull out a bone quite easily. Remove the ribs from the tin and leave to cool for an hour or so to firm up

Meanwhile, make the quince glaze. Place all the ingredients in a medium saucepan and stir over low heat on the hob until the quince paste has completely melted

Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lump of wood onto the ashen charcoal to start smoking

Brush the ribs with the glaze, then place on the grill in the direct heat zone. Cook for 2 minutes on each side before moving them to the indirect heat zone and basting with the glaze

Close the lid of the barbecue and continue to cook the ribs, turning and basting them every 3 minutes or so, until they are beautifully glazed and lightly charred with a good crust. Serve with a hearty salad and some extra warm glaze on the side