The Kings Head has all the trappings of a traditional British pub. Dating back to 1786, it acts as a communal hub for the residents of Whiteparish, sitting on the edge of the New Forest. In recent years, it fell into disrepair, until it was taken over in 2017 and relaunched as a destination pub with luxury accommodation and a fantastic restaurant at its core. That restaurant – Betony – is where Roux Scholar and accomplished chef Matthew Tomkinson now showcases his cuisine.

Moving on from his decade-long tenure at the nearby Montagu Arms in Beaulieu, Matt’s latest restaurant is a little less formal and a little more intimate, but just as exciting. With a modern British menu, dishes make the most of local produce and seasonal ingredients, with Matt utilising his classical French background to fill every plate with impressive technique. A celeriac and apple velouté, for example, comes with a truffled arancini and pickled apple salad, while local veal rump is accompanied by carrot tartare, boulangere potatoes and broccoli.

Diners can choose from an à la carte or a surprise six-course tasting menu, which changes depending on what’s at its best on the day. There’s a simple curated wine list – including a tasting of six different varieties to go with the surprise menu – and of course all the drinks available in the main pub too. Dishes are familiar and champion the ingredients above all else, which is at the foundation of all Matt’s cooking.

The restaurant itself is laidback and casual, suiting diners who pop in after a day trekking through the New Forest or those looking for a celebratory dinner without any stuffy formalities. This is elevated, comforting pub food at its very best – confirming Betony (and The Kings Head) as an exciting new restaurant to keep an eye on in this sleepy part of Wiltshire.