Restaurants across the country underwent big changes as a result of the coronavirus pandemic, adapting, pivoting and doing everything possible to stay afloat when forced into closure. However, not many went on quite as much of a journey as the Bermondsey Larder did in 2020.

Robin and Sarah Gill made the difficult decision to close their much-loved Clapham restaurant The Dairy in August that year, before reopening in a brand-new space in the Bermonds Locke development a few months later. A legal dispute may have led to a change in name, but the Gills’ vision is exactly the same as before. Bermondsey Larder is all about serving seasonal British produce in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.

Café-chic meets modern bistro in the light-filled space; plants dangle from above and a mixture of banquettes, counter seating and separate tables and chairs are dotted around. The elegant tiled bar, however, is undoubtedly Bermondsey Larder’s focal point. Serving lunch and dinner throughout the week, the restaurant morphs into a fashionable brunch destination on weekends for those on the hunt for an upgrade on the classics – a potato rosti, for example, comes served with pollock fritters, courgette and tarragon.

Gill’s obsession with seasonal produce means that the a la carte at Bermondsey Larder changes practically daily, with dishes based on availability and which ingredients are at their peak. Pork and fennel salume remains a constant on the snack menu, with no more than four or five options to choose from for starters and mains. Devon smoked eel might come accompanied by a celeriac and Jersey oyster remoulade, while vegetarian options such as fried artichokes with Jersey Royals and olive oil mayonnaise also play a large role on the menu.

In keeping with the ethos of the food, the short wine list champions small growers and organic wines, featuring a number of options available by the glass. Bermondsey Larder’s cocktail menu is also well worth perusing, with the expert bar staff able to tailor drinks to taste.

As with everyone who works in hospitality, Gill may have been put through the wringer during lockdown – but he’s come out the other side just as popular and still serving the style of food he’s become known for.