Veal kidneys with a Roquefort and walnut butter

Offal is not what most people would consider a luxurious, indulgent ingredient, but Henry Harris proves this theory wrong in his veal kidney recipe. A rich Roquefort butter is generously heaped over perfectly cooked kidneys, which in turn sit nestled on a bed of rich, smooth mash.

First published in 2015
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Veal kidneys

Roquefort and walnut butter

Mashed potato


  • Mouli


Begin by preparing the Roquefort and walnut butter. Mix the butter with half of the Roquefort, garlic and Tabasco until smooth
Crumble the remaining Roquefort into the butter and carefully fold in the walnuts and parsley. Taste for seasoning, then place onto a large sheet of cling film. Cover the butter with the edge of the cling film and roll up into a long, compact sausage. Twist both the ends of the cling film and tie off into knots to seal. Chill in the fridge to set
To prepare the veal kidney, remove the fat and trim away any sinew. Separate each nodule of kidney and cut each in half. Set aside while you make the mash
  • 1 veal kidney, whole
Add the potatoes to a pan and cover with cold water. Add a few generous pinches of sea salt to the pan, place over a high heat and bring to the boil
Reduce to a simmer and cook the potatoes for 20-30 minutes, or until tender all the way through. Drain the potatoes and allow to steam and dry uncovered for 4-5 minutes
Pass through a mouli or vegetable mill, using the finest available sieve attachment. Add the potato purée to a clean pan and place over a low heat
Using a large spoon, stir the potatoes for 5-10 minutes to dry them out further. Meanwhile, add the milk to a pan and bring to the boil. Once the potatoes are ready, add 1/3 of the milk to the potatoes and beat to combine
  • 500ml of milk
Gradually stir in the butter, allowing any lumps to melt completely before each addition. Once the butter has been added, stir in small splashes of milk to create a very smooth, buttery mash. If desired, add more butter to taste
  • 250g of butter, cut into cubes
Season with salt and pepper and finish with 2-3 gratings of nutmeg. Keep piping hot while you cook the kidneys
Season the kidneys with salt and pepper and heat a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan
Fry the kidneys quickly until they are a light bronze colour on the outside and are rosy pink on the inside - this will take 2-4 minutes depending on the heat of your stove
Add the Armagnac and veal stock and cook for a further 10 seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and spoon the mashed potato onto plates
Make a well in each mound of mash and place the kidneys inside the well. Place 2 slices of the Roquefort butter over each portion of the kidneys. Serve immediately with a little chopped parsley
First published in 2015

Henry Harris’s cuisine recalls the fine traditions of French bourgeois cooking with affection and generosity.

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