Welcome to the world of competitive crockery. Yes, this is the week that the North West really ups its game in the plate department with everything from the finest pop art porcelain to artisan stoneware that comes with its own urban myth. But more of that later.
Newcomer to the competition, Hrishikesh Desai is the Michelin-starred executive chef at the Lake District’s luxurious Gilpin Hotel. Hrishikesh starts with ‘Old is Gold’ – a medley of golden vegetables and sliced cured scallops, presented on a pure white record-grooved platter, spinning on a retro turntable. Incorporating a recipe for pickled saffron carrots by this week’s veteran judge, Tom Aikens, it also includes toasted hazelnuts, carrot and cumin puree, apple batons and a generous splash of orange vinaigrette.
Guest judge, singer and songwriter Amy Macdonald likes the crunchy elements of the dish, as does Andi, but Oliver complains ‘I can’t taste the scallops’ and Matthew grudgingly agrees.
Adam Reid, chef-patron of The French at Manchester’s Midland Hotel, enters the competition boldly exclaiming, ‘thinking that you’ve nailed the brief gives you so much confidence’. Adam certainly doesn’t seem short of that.
With his hearty starter, ‘From the Beatles to Oasis’, Adam argues that northern bands through the ages have been sustained by home-cooked meals like ‘tater ‘ash’ (or potato hash if your house has bay windows). Beef tartare is seasoned with truffle, smoked salt and charcoal-infused oil, then mixed with diced root vegetables, parsley, celery leaves and beef dripping croutons. It’s served with a thick slab of malted beer bread and a hefty slap of beef butter. Oliver decides it’s ‘a really exciting dish to eat’ and Andi adds she’s ‘quite blown away’. Amy says ‘I’m having to stop myself from wolfing it down’.