Sometimes, watching Great British Menu, it feels like the judges are eating an altogether different menu from the weekly guest chef. Dishes that score nines and tens in the cook-off are dismissed as substandard while disappointing flavours or presentation are conversely praised. Of course, the point of the weekly rounds is that competitors can test and refine their dishes, but sometimes exactly the same plates provoke opposing views. Such is the subjective nature of food. Or is it just that controversy makes better TV?
On Friday we saw the last of the weekly heats, with returning chef Eddie Atwell competing against newcomer Tommy Heaney for the chance to represent Northern Ireland in the final. Having failed to make it through to the judges’ chamber last year, Eddie had redemption on his mind, but that didn’t mean Tommy was going to take the competition lying down.
Proceedings kicked off with Eddie’s Womble Common, a dose of nostalgia for fans of Wimbledon’s pointy nosed, rubbish collecting creatures. Intended to look like the common on which the Wombles live, this earthy dish included mushrooms, salsify, Jerusalem artichoke puree and douglas fir oil over a bed of hazelnut, squid ink and malted beer crumbs and a cheese custard. All very inspired, but not bright enough to fit the judges’ ‘taste of summer’ brief.