Opening in 2014, Tredwells is the latest arm of the ever-increasing Marcus Wareing empire, overseen by the group's operations manager (and now chef patron) Chantelle Nicholson. Enjoying plum position in the heart of London’s Theatreland – the Cambridge Theatre is a two minute walk, while the Prince of Wales and Royal Opera House take just seven minutes to get to on foot – Tredwells is a more relaxed dining experience, with a number of tables specifically reserved for walk in diners.
Dishes are for the most part robust, with many traditional British comfort foods given a glamorous update – think Truffled macaroni cheese and Gin and tonic cheesecake – and a selection of burgers, chops and Lake District steaks. It is not simply classic British fare, though. The restaurant’s own descriptive tag is ‘modern London cooking’, and the menu delivers exactly this; like London itself, dishes are significantly improved by a variety of influences from other cultures. Brixham crab salad comes with kaffir lime, Poached haddock with chorizo and borlotti beans, while Harissa glazed aubergine with peanuts, coriander and chilli and Yuzu and maple parfait are among some of the other highlights.
Unlike Wareing’s other restaurants, Tredwells also offers an extensive breakfast menu during the week, available from 8am to 11am Monday to Friday and until 4pm on the weekends for brunch. Alongside the regular egg, bacon and now seemingly ubiquitous avocado-on-sourdough, the menu offers some more unusual choices including Prawn Benedict and Bloody Maria, a Bloody Maria made with tequila in place of vodka.
Indeed, like the food the cocktails, too, are innovative twists on old favourites. The New Fashioned is rye whiskey mixed with bitters and marmalade, while a Gunpowder Gimlet contains gin, lime, green tea and cardamom. The cocktail list – including a separate list of weekend brunch cocktails - was devised by Dav Eames, bar manager at The Gilbert Scott, while Marcus Wareing’s trusted executive sommelier Michael Deschamp put together the restaurant’s wine list.
Despite the menu’s premium twist Tredwells is exceedingly affordable, with a reasonably priced pre-theatre express menu and a ‘junior menu’ for children. Set across three floors, the venue is airy and spacious, with plenty of natural light playing against the somewhat New York influenced dark wood and dark green of the interiors. Already famous and hanging impressively along one wall is the vast Tredwells clock made out of vintage knives - helping not only to add to the stylish surroundings, but also no doubt ensuring its pre theatre diners make their shows on time.