Run by four generations of the Goring family since 1910, this 5 star hotel in Belgravia has hosted The Duchess of Cambridge on the eve of the Royal Wedding as well as many more Windsors over the last century. It was granted a Royal Warrant in 2013.
Stepping into the kitchen in 2012, Shay Cooper has taken on the remit of aggrandised British cuisine with due panache, managing to temper the classicism with some of the distinct touches that marked him out as a chef to watch at Richmond’s Bingham restaurant.
Old classics like Eggs Drumkilbo (thought to be a favourite of the Queen Mother, no less) and Beef Wellington remain, but are accompanied by some nascent concoctions like Scottish lobster risotto, winter truffle and hazelnut and Salt marsh lamb, hotpot potatoes, haggis. The cheese trolley is the stuff of which dreams are made.
The quiet elegance of Cooper’s cooking sits nicely with the regal rhythms of the dining room. Waiters retain a degree of formality but are charming with it, while carpeted floors and golden brocades lend the room a cosy ambience.
Clarets and Burgundies sit on a wine list that is otherwise surprisingly eclectic. Among the 500 labels are new and old world classics, balanced by some rarefied choices from Head Sommelier Olivier Clausse. A glass of ‘crisp’ Ayala or ‘biscuity’ Bollinger make suitably decadent additions to The Goring’s famed Afternoon Tea.