Now that the building has been polished back into something resembling its original splendour, and a wonderful dining area has been rejuvenated in it, who better to hire to make their mark in the kitchen and add the finishing touches of elegance, refinement, and class than Marcus Wareing?
The Gilbert Scott – named after the building’s architect – is his newest venture, and one which has impressed considerably. The way the restaurant looks has the real ‘wow’ factor – a grand, dramatic Victorian dining room lit by huge windows offering views of the station. And the food follows suit; on the menu here you can expect to find food influenced by ‘the pioneering and skilled cooks of old time England, such as Florence White, Isabelle Beeton, Agnes Marshall and John Nott’. This takes the form of delightfully retro and recognisable dishes like Lincolnshire haslet, served here with plum; partridge terrine with blackberries and girolles; mulligatawny with quail and onion rings; and smoked Welsh rarebit. And that’s just the starters.
Dorset snail and chicken pie comes served with garlic and parsley; there’s a choice of ‘Mrs Beeton’s barbecue chicken’ (a spatchcocked chicken with spiced sauce) and even London Pride battered cod with chips. Sides of bubble and squeak and sage and onion stuffing (among others) complete the picture of hearty British sustenance in grand surroundings. The desserts are things of childhood dreams with the Manchester Tart being a particular favourite. With Wareing in charge of the menu, it goes without saying that the execution of each of these dishes surpasses any expectations.
A pastry kitchen menu offers sweet stuff for those in a rush, and the wine list includes a selection of English sparkling varieties alongside a wide selection from more commonly-seen regions.