Well-travelled, highly-renowned, and brought back to the UK after time spent rejuvenating Australia’s restaurants – Bruno Loubet was asked into the kitchen at The Zetter hotel in Clerkenwell, owned by the people behind nearby, well-respected Moro, to showcase his skills.
And it’s paid off; Bistrot Bruno Loubet has been hailed as consistently excellent since its opening in 2010, building on the same kinds of successes as Loubet’s other London ventures and reminding us about how his reputation came to be so good in the first place.
The Zetter is a cool hotel, and the Bistrot occupies a modern and airy dining room in it; the understated elegance and refined yet relaxed atmosphere fit in perfectly with the rest of the hotel and the room itself, with hints of retro style and large windows looking out onto the pretty square, is a relaxed place to enjoy your food. This is aided, of course, by the service – praised for being utterly knowledgeable and friendly – and the inquisitive, laid-back crowd the place draws.
And this is before we even get onto the food. Loubet’s raison d’être is to present beautiful flavours in perfect balance, so that each element of the dish gets equal billing and the sheer quality of everything on the plate gets to shine. Dishes such as roast wood pigeon with stir-fried Brussels sprouts and cassava chips are simple (although beautifully executed and presented) showcases of individual flavours working in harmony with each other; with plates like the guinea fowl boudin blanc on Jerusalem artichoke veloute, or the snails and meatballs with wild mushroom royale, Loubet proves his mastery of technique. Ingredients like hare, salt cod, homemade duck charcuterie, sardine tartare, and a range of whipped and flavoured butters and ice creams complete the menu; it’s been universally praised and people keep coming back for more.
Wines and cocktails come from an epic list, with many wines available by the carafe; there’s also a popular breakfast menu and bar food available.
Chef
Bruno Loubet
With stints at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Le Petit Blanc and The Four Seasons, Inn on the Park – among other illustrious names – under his belt, Bruno Loubet is one of the most well-known French chefs working in the UK.
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Signature dishes