Along the banks of Istanbul’s Galata Bridge, vendors sell these simple sandwiches of mackerel and salad. From the gaudy boats designed to attract tourists, to the tiny, rickety stalls, the smell of grilled seafood fills the air. They vary widely in quality, and the trick is to find the freshest fish, the softest bread, and the sprightliest of salads.
I found a favourite during my time there – a tiny set-up near the fish market in Karaköy. A man worked behind the flimsiest of well-used grills flipping glistening fillets and laying them into puffy Turkish bread. A colourful salad is added: shreds of crunchy lettuce, peppers and carrots sprinkled with lemon juice, drops glittering in the bright afternoon sun. A squeeze of pomegranate molasses and some Turkish chilli flakes and the sandwich is pressed closed.
We took our paper packages and found a lunch spot next to the lapping Bosphorous, sharing a small table with seagulls and a guy serving tea from a rickety urn. It’s a time and a place thing, this sandwich, so I’ve taken inspiration from the original to make this version.
It’s not always practical to find the best fresh mackerel, so my version uses smoked, which can be easily obtained and makes a lovely, rich filling. The salad is true to the original, crunchy and fresh, dressed with pomegranate molasses for a sweet/sharp flavour. The main deviation in my recipe is the addition of yoghurt dressing, which adds a nice creamy base to the sandwich, and makes it extra juicy. Don’t forget the napkins!